Author Huang Kai-Yang follows the threads of the Fuzhou cultural diaspora from China to the Matsu Islands, Taiwan, Malaysia and beyond through its lasting influence on language, culture and, of course, classic Fuzhounese dishes such as scallion pancakes, fish balls, “Buddha’s temptation”, and meats marinated in red vinasse.

Sailing with Flavors brings together Huang Kai-Yang’s historical research and personal observations related to the Fuzhou diaspora. Centered on Fuzhounese food culture in Taiwan, he frames his retelling of this diaspora’s living legacy around the four culinary pillars of scallion pancakes, fish balls, “Buddha’s temptation”, and red-vinasse-marinated meats. The story opens on a scallion-pancake vendor in Taipei whose Fuzhounese-tinged Mandarin and Fuzhou-inspired snack offering quickly catches the author’s attention. Not only did Huang finish his military service on Matsu, his maternal grandparents were also native Fuzhounese speakers. Entranced by the personal and cultural memories evoked by the vendor’s simple menu, the humble scallion pancake becomes his doorway into a deeper exploration of the paths taken by and the enduring imprint of Fuzhou immigrant communities.


Fish balls, a central fixture of Fuzhounese festivals and everyday meals, are an indispensable reminder to diasporic communities of their ancestral ties to Fuzhou whether boiled in soups served during festivals on Matsu or served mixed with noodles on family tables in Sibu, Malaysia. As for the quintessentially Fuzhounese dish “Buddha’s temptation”, Huang synthesizes his field and archival research findings to tell the story of this dish’s transmission to Taiwan and the “marriage” of local ingredients and traditional techniques that created today’s must-have wedding banquet and festival staple. In telling the story of red vinasse, Huang returns his narrative lens again to the family table to discuss the nationwide popularity of red vinasse chicken soup, stir-fried pork, and other dishes.


Following threads of history, language and lifestyle, Huang shows how the far-flung sons and daughters of Fuzhou have used food and flavor to sustain familial ties with their homeland, helping give readers new insights into culinary culture, language and diasporic pathways. More than the story of culinary heritage, Sailing with Flavors explores issues of identity and belonging in transnational diaspora communities.